衝動，還是理性？藏家Mervin Ling最愛的新收藏｜HOROGUIDES雜誌Vol.10 特別企劃

在這個不再單向上行的市場週期中，藏家的決策邏輯也隨之轉變。過去以情緒為主導的購買動機，正逐步讓位給更複雜的心理與價值判斷。當代藏家變得更為審慎且自覺， 開始將視角由外部市場轉向內在經驗，重新思考一枚腕錶與自身閱歷、審美品味與生活節奏之間的關係。

也正是在這樣的背景下，本期特別企劃【您最愛的新收藏，是衝動購買，還是理性決定?】(What's Your Favorite Recent NWA―and Was It an Impulse or a Considered Choice?) 應運而生。我們邀請多位眼光獨到的腕錶藏家，分享他們在市場修正之後的最新入手。這一次，我們刻意不羅列制式的收藏清單，而是透過每一段入手過程背後的心路歷程，重新梳理當代藏家與物件之間的情感連結。

Mervin Ling

我是來自香港的Mervin，一位鐘錶愛好者，同時也是Instagram帳號FPJCC（@fpjourne.collectors.club）的創辦人。這個帳號誕生於疫情期間，初衷是希望能與世界各地的收藏家交流，共同欣賞及推廣獨立製錶工藝。

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The F.P. Journe Élégante (Titalyt® treatment) 40mm Black Dial with 12 rows of diamonds. I affectionately call it “Ice Dark Elegance” for its striking contrast of brilliance and depth. This watch represents the most elegant and “dressed-up” version of the traditional Élégante.

我最近最喜愛的一只新入手腕錶，是F.P. Journe Élégante（Titalyt®處理）40mm黑面版本，搭配12排鑽石鑲嵌。我私下稱它為「Ice Dark Elegance」，用來形容它在光芒與深邃之間所形成的強烈對比。這款腕錶代表了傳統Élégante系列中最為優雅、最具「正裝感」的一個版本。

F.P. JOURNE Élégante 鈦金屬／錶徑40mm／1210機芯

The Élégante represents the perfect intersection that is extremely precious and technical. Although powered by a “quartz movement”, this is no ordinary quartz- it fully embodies F.P. Journe’s philosophy of innovation and precision. Through the dial, a small rotor serves as a motion sensor, endowing the Calibre 1210 with its distinctive “living” character. When no movement is detected for 35 minutes, the watch enters sleep mode: the hands pause to preserve energy while the movement continues to measure time internally. Once motion resumes, the hands swiftly return to the correct time- following the shortest path.

Élégante腕錶象徵著珍貴價值與精湛技術的完美交融。 雖然它搭載的是「石英機芯」，這卻絕非普通的石英錶——它充分體現了F.P. Journe對創新與精準的理解。錶盤之下，一枚微型擺陀作為動態感測器，賦予1210機芯近乎「有生命」的運作特性。當35分鐘內未偵測到任何活動，Élégante腕錶象徵著珍貴價值與精湛技術的完美交融。

Its 40mm case and refined silhouette make it remarkably versatile and unisex, balancing masculine confidence with feminine grace. The 12 rows of diamonds (set with 222 brilliant- cut of diamonds.) add brilliance and substance without overshadowing the understated allure of its black dial, which lends the watch a quiet sense of mystery. The dial is also mesmerizing when the light hits it, the prints seem to float above the dial just like the Chronomètre Bleu. The other small detail of this watch is the number “4” on top of the mechanical motion detector is not cut off like the other Élégante. This is the only “in production”version to include this unique feature. These similar transparent sapphire dials were also used in the Vagabondage before. It is the hidden yet subtle details that make it- “If you know you know.”

40mm 的錶殼與精緻的輪廓，使這款腕錶易於搭配且中性，兼具男性的從容自信與女性的優雅氣質。所鑲嵌的12排鑽石（共鑲嵌222顆明亮式切割鑽石）增添璀璨光芒與質感，卻又不掩蓋黑色錶盤的低調魅力，賦予腕錶一種靜謐的神秘感。錶面在光線折射下顯得格外迷人，其上圖案彷彿懸浮於錶盤之上，呈現出Chronomètre Bleu般的視覺效果。其他細節同樣別具匠心，位於動力感應裝置上方的「4」字樣並未像其他Élégante系列腕錶那樣被截斷，這是目前唯一一款包含此獨特設計的量產版本，類似的透明藍寶石錶盤也曾用於先前的Vagabondage系列中。這 些低調卻精妙的細節，正是所謂「懂的人自然會懂」。

This was a carefully considered acquisition rather than an impulsive one. The anticipation of securing this configuration deepened its significance. To me, it captures a rare expression of F.P. Journe’s design philosophy—contemporary, wearable, and elegantly unconventional.

這是一枚經過深思熟慮後才入手的腕錶，而非一時衝動。 對於得到這一配置的期待感，讓它變得更具意義。對我而言，它完美詮釋了 F.P. Journe的設計理念——現代、實用，且優雅又精緻。

精彩完整內容，敬請閱覽HOROGUIDES Vol.10
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