熱潮過後，藏家樊慰慈最愛的新收藏 | HOROGUIDES雜誌Vol. 7 特別企劃
熱潮褪去，留下的是本質與初心。當鐘錶市場逐步回歸理性，當話題不再喧囂，真正能長久陪伴於腕間的時計，往往並非當初萬眾矚目的焦點，而是那些能與生活節奏共鳴、與內心深處產生對話的作品。收藏從來不只是購買，更是一場歷經時間沉澱後的選擇與自我確認。
本期特別企劃【熱潮過後，藏家最愛的新收藏？】（After the Hype: What's Your Favorite NWA?）中，我們邀請多位熱情且眼光獨到的腕錶藏家，分享他們在市場修正之後所做出的嶄新選擇。這些藏品或許未曾登上話題頂峰，卻因真摯的情感連結與個人生命歷程而格外動人。從佩戴的日常到回憶的累積，這些腕錶所記錄的不僅是時間的刻度，更映照出藏家對風格、價值與人生哲學的深刻回應。
學藝術的人浪漫嗎?是，也不是。無論音樂或機械錶，線條、比例和結構都蘊含了理性的基底，只是感覺很浪漫!
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2023年W&W期間蕭邦曾推出一款鮭魚面的L.U.C 1860亮鋼版正裝錶，36.5mm的小錶徑尤顯雅緻。雖然在設計和做工上都正到不行，照理說也完全對我胃口，但不知為何我卻一直沒出手。隔年春無意中在一則沒大事張揚的國外錶訊中瞥見一支黃金款的L.U.C 1860 Flying T，錶盤內圈有著異常迷人的特殊鐫刻紋路，並加上我喜愛的軍官式後底蓋；60秒轉一圈的飛行陀飛輪上有個小箭頭當作秒針，並有陀飛輪功能較罕見的停秒裝置，還經COSC精準度認證及獲得機芯與錶殼的雙重日內瓦印記。我終於明白，答案出現了！可惜全球編號限量十支，幾經詢問，都說已沒貨了～
去年十月新加坡有個IAMWATCH獨立錶展，我在會場上巧遇代表蕭邦參展的Karl-Fritz Scheufele (蕭邦總裁之子)，更巧的是他居然秀出一支原做為巡展用的1860黃金飛行陀飛輪！長話短說，經過磋商協調，整支錶被送回瑞士全面保養及換新錶蓋，約半年後，有情人終得靚錶。某些錶或有成千上萬人追捧，而這款即使只有區區十位認真考慮收藏，我也很高興自己做出這個發自內心的選擇。
CHOPARD L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon 黃金/錶徑36.5mm / L.U.C 96.24-L機芯
Among all the classy dressy watches in recent horological history, Chopard’s L.U.C 1860 has been considered an absolute icon by many watch connoisseurs. I for one had elected the extraordinarily elegant L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel with salmon dial as the best dress watch of 2023 in a watch magazine in Taiwan. When stumbled upon a somewhat low-keyed reveal of a new edition of L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon in Yellow Gold early last year, I was so captivated by its sheer beauty that my face must have blushed like seeing a girlfriend for the first time. The intricate hand-guilloché pattern on the center dial receives a mesmerizing new design, totally different from the previous editions’. Serving as a small second dial with a pointed arrow on the tourbillon carriage, the one-minute flying tourbillon is hacked, a rarity for the tourbillon. It is also likely to be the only Poinçon de Genève watch, for both its movement and the case, receiving COSC chronometer certification. What a value pack, even considering its high price tag. An officer’s case back covering the beautiful L.U.C 96.24-L movement feels like a luxurious bonus.
My ensuing pursuit of it was nothing short of a melodrama. In a nutshell, the acquisition of a limited edition of just 10 pieces was futile initially. When I stumbled upon, again, a touring sample of it during IAMWATCH event in Singapore last Fall, however, the task was finally accomplished thanks the concerted effort of Karl-Fritz Scheufele (Chopard CEO Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s son), Pierre Millereau (Managing Director of Chopard Asia & Oceania), and a diligent sales associate in Taiwan, with, of course, my own perseverance.
As the story goes… the watch and I live happily ever after.
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